Day 2, 12/22/10

Just a normal day on the beach. The waves here, which are usually about 5-6 ft. high long curling barrels were 2-3 ft. at best, soft breaking, and very hard to judge. Strong off-shore winds caused waves to form, then die, then break. I let up a few potentially awesome rides because I thought the wave was going to break on top of me. The wind would then blow, diminish the break, and then the wave would break about 20 feet in front of me. Even on a 7'0" board (which for people who don't surf is not quite a long board, but not quite a short board...basically just a versatile fun board really) it was tough to catch anything. I only got one ride and just took it in to shore for the time I was out there. I up'd my board to an 8'0", which is at the small end of a long board. A couple people I was out with were on 9'0" boards and said "I could even use another foot on this for waves like these," but I think I'll be fine with the 8'0". If not, there's always longer boards I can pick up. Sunset was beautiful as always, and very relaxing. My dad, brother, and I went back out to the beach around 5PM with chairs and beers. ¡Perfecto!